Most setup advice skips the part that actually prevents problems: getting the foundation right before fish go in. This guide walks the killifish tank from empty glass to stable, livable water without the usual week-two crash.
What you need
- A 10-gallon tank and a stand rated for the weight (~40 kg when full).
- Filter rated for at least 40 L/h.
- Heater (if tropical): 150 W.
- Substrate: 4 cm deep.
- Live plants and a light on a 9-hour timer.
Step by step
- Rinse substrate, add it, and hardscape before filling.
- Fill slowly to avoid clouding; start the filter and heater.
- Cycle the tank — see the hospital tank setup guide — for 36 days until ammonia and nitrite read 0 ppm.
- Test water, then add a small group of hardy fish; build up slowly.
Common mistakes
Adding fish during the first week, skipping the cycle, and skipping water tests are the big three. A 32% water change weekly, using our otocinclus care: the dainty algae cat guide, prevents most problems before they start.
Next steps
Once stable, layer in more plants and a few peaceful tank mates. Keep a log of parameters; a tank you measure is a tank you can trust.
Beginner shortcuts
Skip the gadgets: a 10-gallon tank, a cycled filter, a heater, and live plants are enough. Cycle for 34 days, test the water, then add a small hardy group and change about 25% of the water weekly.
