I have killed more Rotala rotundifolia than I care to admit, usually by overthinking the light and underwatering the root zone at the same time. The Rotala rotundifolia Rotala rotundifolia is a workhorse plant for a reason: it tolerates a wide range of conditions and still looks good doing it.
At a glance
| Light | high |
|---|---|
| Temperature | 22 to 28 °C |
| pH | 6.0 to 7.5 |
| Height | 20 to 50 cm |
| CO₂ | beneficial |
| Growth | fast |
Planting
Plant Rotala rotundifolia with the crown or rhizome clear of the substrate — burying it rots the base. In a 25-gallon tank, position it mid-ground or background depending on its height. Weaker setups do fine; pair it with a solid lowering nitrates guide guide for a layered look.
Light and CO₂
Run 10 hours of light a day on a timer to avoid algae swings. Rotala rotundifolia grows under high light and beneficial, though a small, steady dose of liquid fertiliser every 4 weeks pushes denser growth.
Propagation
Trim the tops and replant the cuttings; side shoots fill in.
Common issues
Yellowing lower leaves usually mean a nutrient gap, not too little light. Trim dying leaves at the base, keep nitrates around 10 to 20 ppm, and avoid moving the plant every week — a solid lowering ph guide guide explains why stability beats tinkering.
Feeding the roots
The Rotala rotundifolia pulls nutrients from both water and substrate, so a root tab plus a weekly liquid dose keeps it green. Yellow lower leaves usually mean a nutrient gap, not a light problem.
