I have killed more Anubias barteri than I care to admit, usually by overthinking the light and underwatering the root zone at the same time. The Anubias barteri Anubias barteri is a workhorse plant for a reason: it tolerates a wide range of conditions and still looks good doing it.
At a glance
| Light | low |
|---|---|
| Temperature | 22 to 28 °C |
| pH | 6.0 to 7.5 |
| Height | 15 to 30 cm |
| CO₂ | not required |
| Growth | slow |
Planting
Plant Anubias barteri with the crown or rhizome clear of the substrate — burying it rots the base. In a 30-gallon tank, position it mid-ground or background depending on its height. Weaker setups do fine; pair it with our columnaris: the cotton-mouth bacteria guide for a layered look.
Light and CO₂
Run 8 hours of light a day on a timer to avoid algae swings. Anubias barteri grows under low light and not required, though a small, steady dose of liquid fertiliser every 4 weeks pushes denser growth.
Propagation
Divide rooted offsets from the rhizome.
Common issues
Yellowing lower leaves usually mean a nutrient gap, not too little light. Trim dying leaves at the base, keep nitrates around 10 to 20 ppm, and avoid moving the plant every week — a solid dwarf hairgrass care: the carpeting lawn explains why stability beats tinkering.
Low-light reality
Under low light the Anubias barteri grows slower and stays compact, which is ideal for a low-tech tank. Run 8 hours of light on a timer and skip CO₂; a light liquid fertiliser every few weeks is enough.
